As an emerging 21st Century nation Tajikistan is a fascinating place to live and work. It is a small country, bordered by Afghanistan to the south, China to the east, and two of Tajikistan's fellow CIS countries, Uzbekistan and Kyrgystan, along its western and northern borders. Throughout the 20th Century, Tajikistan was controlled by the Soviet Union, serving as a buffer zone along the mountainous Afghanistan and Chinese borders. Tajikistan was closed off from the rest of the world for centuries and is taking its first steps into the international arena. The members of the U.S. Embassy in Dushanbe, Tajikistan, have a unique opportunity to see — and to influence — Tajikistan's evolution from a tightly controlled Soviet territory into an independent country.

The Host Country

Area, Geography, and Climate Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:00 PM

The Republic of Tajikistan gained its independence during the breakup of the USSR and is part of former Soviet Central Asia nestled between Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan to the north and west, Afghanistan to the south, and China to the east.

Covering an area slightly smaller than the state of Wisconsin, Tajikistan is home to some of the highest mountains in the world, including parts of the Kunlun, Himalayan, Tienshan, and Pamir Ranges. Ninety-three percent of the country is mountainous with altitudes ranging from 1,000 feet to 25,000 feet, with fully 50% of Tajikistan's territory at elevations above 10,000 feet. Earthquakes of varying degrees are frequent. The massive mountain ranges are cut by hundreds of scenic canyons and gorges through which streams finger their way into the larger river valleys where the majority of the country's population lives and works.

The principal rivers of central Asia, the Amu-Darya and the Syr-Darya, both flow through Tajikistan, fed by melting snow in the mountains of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan.. Although located at the same latitude as Washington, D.C., Tajikistan's climate is drier and varies with altitude. There are four distinct seasons: gorgeous springs, with soft breezes and flowers blooming everywhere; hot, dry summers; pleasant autumns with warm days and cool evenings, and in the low altitude city of Dushanbe, relatively mild winters.

Snowfall rapidly increases with altitude. The climate of the mountainous Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast (GBAO), which occupies the eastern half of Tajikistan, is more extreme. The mountainous east receives 90% of Tajikistan's yearly precipitation, and its average annual temperature is 49°F; in Dushanbe it's 65 °F.

Population Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:01 PM

The population of Tajikistan in 2003 was 6.86 million.

The population is split almost evenly between men and women. With the highest birth rate in the former Soviet Union, half of Tajikistan's population is under the age of 21. Although approximately 1.5 million people live in urban centers — some 700,000 in the capital of Dushanbe — nearly three-quarters of the population continues to live and work in rural areas.

The balance of Tajikistan's population is spread fairly evenly throughout the western half of the country; approximately 2 million people live in the northern Soghd (formerly Leninabad) region, 1.7 million in the Khatlon region in the south, and 1.4 million in the central region (Dushanbe, Nurek, Rogun, Kofarnihon, Varzob, Hissar, Gharm, Lenin, Tursunzade, and Tavildara).

The population in the mountainous eastern half of Tajikistan is very sparse, about 220,000 in Gorno Badakhshan, a territory that makes up almost half the country.

Perhaps the greatest population change in Tajikistan since the end of the Soviet Era and 1992 — 97 Tajik Civil War is found in the Republic's ethnic composition. From 1989 to present, the percentage of Russians in the Tajik population has dropped from 7.6% to roughly 1.1%. The numbers of other, smaller, minority groups such as Tatars, Jews, and what the government refers to as "others," which includes ethnic Germans, Koreans, Ukrainians, Armenians, etc., have also been sharply reduced in the wake of the breakup of the Soviet Union and Tajikistan's civil discord. Some minority groups, like the Kyrgyz, remained in large numbers. The previously large Uzbek minority has been reduced to 4% of the population.

Within the Tajik population, important social divisions exist according to an individual's place of origin. Tajiks separate themselves into Kulyabis, Gharmis/Karategins, Khojandis, Pamiris, Bukharans, and Samarkandis, as well as a host of other names based on location of origin. The Kulyabis, who were not a powerful group during the Soviet era, provided the muscle to win the civil war. Since 1993, they have dominated the government, and there has been a steady migration of Kulyabis from the underdeveloped south to the capital. President Rahmonov is a Dangaran Kulyabi. Conversely, the traditionally powerful Soghd group experienced a decline in power in the central government.

During the Soviet period, the term "industrial workers" included the agricultural workers such as those working on state or collective farms. Tajikistan thus claimed that 55% of employees were industrial workers, 21.7% were "white-collar" workers, 22.9% worked in rural areas, and 0.2% were engaged in "individual working activity." There is no recent data available, but the mix of various groups has changed a great deal. The collapse of Tajikistan's economy and the closure or reduction in work at many of the country's large factories, and the inability of the government to pay salaries and pensions have all contributed to large numbers of people moving into the private sector in small shops or in one of the various street markets in order to survive.

Tajikistan has also changed linguistically since the breakup of the Soviet Union. Under the Soviet Union, Russian was the language of the government. Tajik was declared the state language of Tajikistan only in 1989, and became the sole official language under the new constitution adopted in 1994. Tajik is used almost exclusively in rural areas and in the markets and Russian, "the language of interethnic communication," continues to be used in the government and in urban centers, but this is changing with the push of the government to use Tajik officially.

Tajik belongs to the southwestern group of the Iranian family of the Indo-European language group, and is mutually intelligible with Iranian Farsi and Afghan Dari speakers. It has four groups of dialects; northern, spoken in Khojand, Samarkand, and Bukhara; central, spoken in the upper Zarafshon; southern, spoken in Karategin and Kulob; and southeastern, spoken in Darvaz and Vanj.

Several languages are spoken in the Pamir mountains of Gorno-Badakhshan from the eastern Iranian language group, including Shugnan, Yazgulom, and Vakhan. Kyrgyz is also spoken in the Eastern Pamirs. Yagnobi, the Eastern Iranian language of the Yagnob Valley, is a very ancient dialect whose preservation has provided the clue to understanding ancient Sogdinian dialect.

Although each regional, social, ethnic, and language group has its own traditions and beliefs, the principal religion in Tajikistan is Islam: Sunni Muslims predominate in western Tajikistan, while the population of Gorno-Badakhshan is largely Ismaili. The two Islamic holidays officially celebrated in Tajikistan — Idi Kurbon and 'Id-al-Fitr — have become more popular with the collapse of communism. Many traditional holidays, such as Navruz (New Year, March 21) actually date from pre-Islamic times. The urban population is, in general, not particularly religiously observant.

Public Institutions Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:01 PM

Having emerged from the Soviet era in 1991, and a crippling civil war that was peacefully concluded in 1997, Tajikistan is a newly formed constitutional, democratic, and secular republic with presidential rule. Executive power is vested in the President, Prime Minister, and the Council of Ministers in Dushanbe, and executive committees in every region, city, and district. The Republic's legislative branch is the Majlisi Oli or Parliament. Provinces, districts, and cities also have legislative bodies. Similarly, there are courts at the national, district, and city levels.

In addition to the People's Democratic Party of Tajikistan (the presidential party, which dominates the government), there are five other political parties officially registered, including an Islamic Party.

Tajikistan is a member of the UN, the Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS), the Commonwealth Security Treaty Organization (CSTO), the Central Asia Cooperation Organization (CACO), the Economic Cooperation Organization (ECO), the Shanghai Cooperation Organization (SCO), the Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE), the World Bank (WB), the International Monetary Fund (IMF), and NATO's Partnership for Peace (PfP).

Arts, Science, and Education Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:03 PM

The arts and sciences and the education systems in Tajikistan have suffered greatly in the wake of the breakup of the Soviet Union as government funding has disappeared. The Tajik Academy of Sciences and the education system were part of a centralized Soviet bureaucracy guided and controlled by Moscow. The end of the Soviet era and the subsequent political unrest left the arts, sciences, and education without direction or money.

The Arts and Sciences — for many years an integral part of Tajik culture — are beginning to reestablish themselves in the urban areas of the country. The end of the Soviet era and the subsequent political unrest left the artistic and educational institutions in a shambles. This is beginning to change. Internationally renowned artists, including Moscow's Bolshoi Ballet, classical and pop musicians now perform in Dushanbe.

To host these artists, there are two recently restored live theaters and an opera house, with a Western-style orchestra and ballet company in addition to the opera company. Dushanbe also boasts a fledgling film industry, which produced a Cannes silver medal winner in 1993, and many children's cultural programs.

Poets are perhaps the most beloved of the artists. The leading central Asian classical composer, Talib Shohidi, is Dushanbe born and based. Statues of poets replaced those of Lenin in Dushanbe. Traditional music and dance are still alive, and professional musicians and dancers are paid to perform at weddings, receptions for visiting dignitaries, and other celebrations.

The education system in Tajikistan collapsed with the departure of the Russians in the early part of the 1990s. Teacher salaries plummeted, basic supplies were nonexistent, and the system barely continued to function in the rural areas. In the urban areas, the education system is beginning to recover. The City University in Dushanbe has been re-energized and is teaching a full curriculum and attracting students throughout Central and Western Asia. The elementary and secondary schools are working hard to offer well-rounded curriculums to their students, and have added foreign language programs. The rural programs are still badly under-funded, but are moving toward recovery.

Commerce and Industry Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:04 PM

Commerce and industry in Tajikistan have recovered somewhat, as has the overall economic outlook. The growth rate for the last 4 years has been close to 10% per year, and a building boom is evident in Dushanbe. Although U.S. assistance has shifted largely from humanitarian to developmental, this country still receives substantial humanitarian assistance from the United Nations, the World Food Program, the European Union, and several nongovernmental organizations operating in various regions of Tajikistan. USAID established an office in Dushanbe in March 1995. The IMF and World Bank also have a presence in Dushanbe. The national currency, the Tajik Somoni, has remained quite stable since its introduction.

Part of the old Silk Route, Tajikistan's Ferghana Valley has the oldest silk factory in the world. Following the breakup of the Soviet Union, it found itself unable to get its usual raw materials or to sell its production outside the immediate area. With foreign partnership, the quality of goods has increased. Cotton production, which was increased through compulsion during the Soviet period, continues to be Tajikistan's major cash crop. Wheat production, though growing, is still insufficient to feed the country. Vegetables, fruits, and nuts, both fresh and preserved, are grown for consumption and export. The tomatoes are viewed by many as the world's best, as are other fruits and vegetables.

The dominant nonagricultural industry is aluminum production based around a gigantic plant built during the Soviet era. Tajikistan provides the electrical power to operate the plant, but has to import raw materials such as aluminum, petroleum coke, and cryolite. Tajikistan has a limited number of joint ventures established between the Government of Tajikistan and international commercial ventures. The largest of these is the British Commonwealth Minerals gold mining project in Penjikent. South Korean and Italian firms have joint ventures in textiles. The U.S., Turkey, Russia, Iran and other nations have also established smaller joint ventures. Foreign investment is hindered by poor communications and a lack of international banking facilities, but is gradually gaining steam as the government pursues economic reform and works on improving physical infrastructure. In 2004, the first ATMs appeared in the capital, although very few people have cards that would allow their use.

Most workers belong to member unions of the Federation of Trade Unions, a holdover from the Soviet era. They enjoy the right to strike, but before a union may legally call a strike, arbitration must take place. If arbitration fails, unions have the right to strike, but labor unions have generally disavowed the utility of strikes in a period of deepening economic crisis and high unemployment. They have espoused compromise between management and workers. Nevertheless, several unofficial wildcat strikes have occurred.

Attitudes on property ownership and investment are changing. Some state enterprises have privatized. Others are planning to privatize, primarily to be in a better position to attract outside investors, and this process should be completed by 2007. A few private companies have started up. Most large towns have a thriving bazaar or two, where small entrepreneurs hawk cheap consumer goods imported from the Gulf, Iran, the subcontinent, China, or Russia. By 1996, almost all apartments and houses had been privatized. Although the constitution prohibits private ownership of land, some land has been given on long lease to private farmers whose heirs may inherit it but cannot sell it. Even farmers remaining on state farms and collective farms usually have a small garden plot. These private plots collectively produce most of the country's fruit and vegetables and a sizable amount of grain.

Transportation Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:04 PM

Transportation within Dushanbe is improving slowly, with progress less so in the countryside. The roads within Dushanbe are marginally maintained with very old equipment. Travel outside of Dushanbe is fraught with dangers of landslides and floods which block or ruin the roads. Especially during the rainy season, many roads will suffer damage — the most frequent being that portions of the road will be washed away.

Automobiles Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:04 PM

Official Americans assigned to the Mission are authorized the shipment of privately owned vehicles (POV). Handcarry a copy of your registration, certificate of ownership and insurance policy, so the vehicle can be registered as soon as it arrives. Vehicles will take 60-90 days to arrive, if shipped from the East Coast.

Traffic in Dushanbe is relatively light, although the number of vehicles on the streets is increasing each year. Drivers make turns from outside lanes, drive backwards at high speed out of narrow lanes and onto roads to join traffic, as well as practicing other unsafe and erratic driving methods. Care must be taken to watch out for unexpected moves by other drivers. The main city thoroughfares are wide and fairly well maintained, and dimly lit at night. Many of the side streets, however, are very rough, filled with potholes and lined with drainage ditches. There are rarely streetlights off of the two main thoroughfares.

A small or mid-size SUV or car with good ground clearance is recommended.

Post requires a minimum of $50,000 in Third Party Liability Insurance. While insurance is available locally, we strongly recommend purchasing insurance through one of the reputable, international companies that do business in this part of the world with expatriots and diplomats.

Local Transportation Last Updated: 10/2/2005 2:57 AM

Traffic in Dushanbe is still light, even though it seems as if the number of cars on the streets doubles every year. The main city thoroughfares are wide and well lit. Many of the streets, however, are very rough, filled with potholes and lined with drainage ditches.

Public transportation consists of bus and streetcar lines along the main thoroughfares, vans running secondary routes within the city and into the surrounding countryside, and taxis. Taxis will stop to pick up multiple passengers unless arrangements are made in advance.

At this time, travel by public transportation is very stongly discouraged for members of the Mission. The strongest reasons for this policy are the danger posed by buses running off of propane tanks that are likely to ingnite, and the danger posed by unscrupulous taxi drivers who may take a passenger to an isolated location with intent of robbery.

Regional Transportation Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:05 PM

Air Tajikistan offers flights in and out of Dushanbe several days a week with their fleet of old Soviet-made aircraft.

Air Tajikistan is not on any computer, so it is not possible for travel agents outside of the country to access their schedules or purchase tickets. Tickets can only be bought by paying cash in person at the airport. Travelers to post must arrange in advance with Embassy Dushanbe for their tickets to be purchased by the expeditor in whatever city they are traveling to Dushanbe from, or bought in Dushanbe and sent to them by courier service. For travelers to post, it is very important to contact us in advance, since the Air Tajik schedule changes often, which can cause problems with connecting flights.

Since July 2005, Air Tajikistan offers a flight to and from Munich each Saturday, which is the most poplular option for Embassy personnel because of the time savings over other flights.

The second most popular option is the Wednesday flight to and from Istanbul.

Other options are to fly through Bishkek (two flights a week) or Almaty (three flights a week). Each of these options usually requires an overnight, or two-night, stay in Bishkek or Almaty. The dates and times of these flights change often, so please contact post for the current schedule if you plan to travel through these cities.

It is also possible to fly from Dushanbe to Khojand and then make the four-hour drive to Tashkent, to fly out from there. There are no direct flights between Tashkent and Dushanbe. Air Tajikistan also offers flights to New Delhi.

Air Tajikistan also flies nonstop to Moscow several times a week, but these flights are booked two months in advance, and since Moscow requires a visa even for transiting passengers and it is very difficult to get the visa, this option is never used except by official visitors who are accredited to Russia.

Communications

Telephones and Telecommunications Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:06 PM

Most Embassy residences have Embassy extensions. The Embassy has several satellite and IVG lines ("tie lines") to Washington. Local cell phones are issued to all staff members, and are available for spouses. Personal local and long distance calls can be made on the cell phones, and will be billed to the user.

The Embassy telephone numbers are country code 992, city code 372, 21-03-48, 21-03-50, 21-03-52. The fax number is 51-00-29.

Internet Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:43 PM

The Embassy has Internet connectivity through OpenNet Plus. Since local Internet service can be both slow and expensive, there are currently few affordable options for home Internet service. Post provides several computers for TDY visitors.

Mail and Pouch Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:07 PM

Post personnel use the unclassified pouch for letter mail and packages. Pouch mail limits are: 30x17x18 inches and 45 pounds. Mail generally takes 3–5 weeks to arrive. Incoming mail arrives erratically. One week we may receive no mail, and another week we may receive one or two shipments if we are lucky. Our mail is routed through Almaty, and delivery depends on whether Tajik Air has space on the incoming flight (Tajik Air flies three times a week from Almaty). Outgoing mail is sent whenever there is enough mail to justify a pouch run — anywhere from once a week at busy times, to once in 2 or 3 weeks.

The address for official mail by pouch is:

American Embassy Dushanbe Department of State 7090 Dushanbe Place Washington, D.C. 20521-7090

The address for personal mail by pouch is:

(Name) 7090 Dushanbe Place Dulles, VA 20189-7090

DHL is the courier service used by Embassy Dushanbe. UPS has opened an office here, and its rates are cheaper than DHL, but its service is less reliable.

Radio and TV Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:08 PM

The Embassy provides homes with AFRTS decoders and has a satellite hookup at the Chancery providing a number of channels, including CNN and BBC World. Russian and Tajik TV stations also broadcast.

The first independent FM radio station in Tajikistan opened in 2002, and was followed quickly by several more. They offer a mix of local and Russian pop music as well as news bulletins in Tajik and Russian. In addition, several Russian radio stations can be picked up in Tajikistan, and VOA, BBC, Radio China, and numerous Christian broadcasting services are available on shortwave.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:08 PM

Local bookstores sell books in Tajik, Uzbek, Persian, and Russian. There are dozens of local magazines and newspapers printed in Dushanbe including some subsidized by the government. Also available is the popular Russian weekly "Argumenty i Fakty." The independent news agency "Asia Plus" produces a 5-day-a-week news summary, distributed by e-mail and broadcast on its radio station.

Health and Medicine

Medical Facilities Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:08 PM

There are no Western-standard hospitals, laboratories, dentists, or pharmacies in Tajikistan. The RMO in Almaty, Kazakhstan, is responsible for medical care for Embassy staff.

As of the end of 2004, a Western-trained and U.S.-certified physician is now on staff and provides services to Embassy staff and family members.

London is the Medevac location. Dental care in Almaty is inexpensive and basic services meet Western standards.

Community Health Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:09 PM

The Embassy provides water distillers at the Chancery and all of the housing since the local water isn't potable. Fruits and vegetables should be soaked in chlorine water and/or washed with distilled water.

Some medicines are available for purchase in local pharmacies, but supply and quality are erratic. Personnel should bring all prescription and over-the-counter (OTC) medicines they require on a regular basis, especially OTC medicines for stomach upset and other digestive disorders.

Preventive Measures Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:09 PM

Before coming to Tajikistan, please visit your dentist, optometrist, and any health care professionals you see regularly. Bring a spare set of glasses. Contact lens wearers should bring a supply of cleaner and soaking solution, which may not be available locally throughout the year. New arrivals should bring an ample supply of all prescription medications, since pouch deliveries take several weeks.

Communicable diseases common to Tajikistan, chiefly in rural areas, are cholera, malaria, rabies, polio, tuberculosis, hepatitis A, B, and C, and typhoid. Booster immunizations should be up to date before arrival for diphtheria, polio, hepatitis A (havrix 1440 vaccine), hepatitis B, typhoid, and rabies. These vaccinations can also be obtained at the Almaty Health Unit. WHO does not recommend the vaccine for cholera. Anti-malarials are not recommended for Dushanbe, but persons traveling in south Tajikistan in the summer can optionally take a dose of chloroquine each week, wear insect repellant, and sleep under a mosquito net.

U.S. personnel in Tajikistan are most likely to encounter episodes of diarrhea and respiratory infections. Despite all efforts to avoid stomach upset, it is an occasional problem for American staff.

Employment for Spouses and Dependents Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:10 PM

The Embassy fully appreciates the importance of meaningful work opportunities for family members. Job opportunites for Eligible Family Member (EFM) positions have become available as the Embassy has grown.

The Embassy has a bilateral work agreement with Tajikistan, but Tajik salaries are extremely low by U.S. standards. The best-paid job opportunities outside the Embassy are with the numerous NGOs and international organizations in Dushanbe. If compensation is less of a priority, there are numerous charities, non-profit organizations, foundations, and groups engaged in a broad range of humanitarian and educational programs, for which a family member may work or volunteer.

American Embassy - Dushanbe

Post City Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:11 PM

Tajikistan's capital, Dushanbe, is located in the extreme west of the country, about a one-hour drive from the border with Uzbekistan. Dushanbe was formed in 1922, when three small settlements of 5,000 people were united. It became the capital when Tajikistan became an autonomous republic in 1924. The city lies in a sheltered river valley at 2,300 feet above sea level, below the Hissar Mountains. The Varzob and Kofarnihon Rivers flow through Dushanbe. Because of its sheltered location, Dushanbe is often spared the more extreme weather conditions prevalent elsewhere in the region. Winters are similar to those in Washington, DC, with cool, damp weather and occasional snow. Spring is generally mild and rainy, while Tajik summers are hot and dry, with temperatures in some areas well over 100 °F. Autumn weather is generally pleasant and dry. In all seasons, temperatures can vary considerably during the course of the day.

Now a city of 700,000, Dushanbe in its center retains the atmosphere of its original planners in the 1920s — wide, tree-lined streets with mostly low-rise apartment houses and office buildings painted white or pastel colors. Although traffic has begun to pick up with increased availability of gasoline, it is still comparatively light. Because of the trees, walking or bicycle riding is pleasant much of the year.

Security Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:11 PM

Dushanbe is a high threat post, but the security situation is continuing to improve, and employees may now move within the cities of Dushanbe and Khojand without restriction. In some parts of the country, employees and visitors are required to travel in armored vehicles with DS-trained bodyguards. Emergency response within Tajikistan is extremely unreliable and cannot be depended on whether the emergency involves a crime or medical emergency. American personnel should maintain contact with their host organizations, the Embassy, and designated security personnel when they travel.

Each employee and spouse is issued a cell phone which they should carry with them at all times. If traveling outside of cell phone range, or up into the hills where reception may be blocked, employees may check out SAT phones and mobile phones from the IPC unit.

The Post and Its Administration Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:11 PM

AmEmbassy Dushanbe was opened in 1992. In 1998, security considerations following the terrorist bombings of U.S. Embassies in East Africa led the Department of State to temporarily relocate post's American staff to Almaty, Kazakhstan. Since 2004, all personnel are assigned directly to Dushanbe.

A new Embassy compound is currently being built and is scheduled to open in the spring of 2006. Until then, post operates out of three adjacent residences that serve as the chancery.

The Mission currently consists of 23 Americans from State, DoD, USAID, and Customs. More agencies are slated to arrive as the Mission grows to its projected full complement upon completion of the new Embassy facility.

Housing

Temporary Quarters Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:12 PM

Post is in the process of transitioning from TDY apartments, which are actually houses made into duplexes (from the days when the Embassy operated with TDY personnel based in Almaty), to single family residences. Post will make every effort to place newcomers directy into their permanent homes. Due to the lack of suitable housing in Dushanbe, and the time required to bring a new residence into compliance with Embassy standards, newcomers to post in 2006 may still be assigned to temporary quarters before being moved to their permanent residences. All residences are fully furnished with standard State Department furniture suites.

Permanent Housing Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:12 PM

Houses in Dushanbe share three walls with their neighbors, and are built around courtyards. The courtyard usually has a paved section that affords parking for at least one vehicle, and a garden area.

Inside the residence, rooms are spacious and have high ceilings with decorative moldings. There are no closets in the bedrooms, or built-in cabinets or counters in bathrooms and kitchens. Post will hire a cabinetmaker to build cabinets and counters for the kitchen, but not for the bathrooms. Newcomers are encouraged to bring small shelving or tables with drawers which may be placed in the bathrooms. Master baths are usually very spacious with room for small cabinets and shelves, but the other bathrooms will be small. Wardrobes are provided for the bedrooms.

The Embassy furnishes homes with a full set of furniture, back-up generators, hot water heaters, and large-capacity water distillers, washers, dryers, and other basic appliances. The city tapwater is generally very muddy after any kind of a rainstorm, and can stain light colored clothing. That problem should be resolved soon, with the installation of water filtration systems in the fall of 2005.

Furnishings Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:12 PM

The Embassy furnishes housing with a full set of furniture, back-up generators, hot water heaters, and large-capacity water distillers, washers, dryers, and other basic appliances. As of this update, water filtration systems are being installed in hopes of cleaning up the discolored water that comes from our pipes.

You may want to bring extra shelving, decorative tables, gardening tools, and any 220 appliances you have.

Utilities and Equipment Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:43 PM

Electric power fluctuations are frequent throughout the year. Power surge protectors are strongly advised for all sensitive, expensive electronic equipment. Each residence has a generator, and is heated and cooled using split pack air-conditioning units.

Food Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:14 PM

Throughout the year, but especially in the spring and summer months, you can purchase fruits and vegetables in Dushanbe at low cost. Fruits available in season include strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, mulberries, rhubarb; cherries, apricots, peaches, pears, figs, apples, pomegranates, melons, persimmons, grapes, and lemons. Walnuts, peanuts, almonds, and pistachios are readily available. Pecans, or "American nuts" as they call them here, appear occasionally. Short grain rice and various kinds of grains and dried beans are available. There are tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, beets, cauliflower, turnips, potatoes, onions, garlic, cabbage, leaf lettuce, and many radishes and radish-like vegetables we have not yet properly identified. There are green and red sweet peppers and chili peppers. Fresh herbs such as basil, mint, dill, chives, and coriander are abundant, but many herbs and vegetables popular in America (thyme, celery, and broccoli, for example) are unknown here.

The winter months are lean with no green vegetables to be found and anemic potatoes and onions for sale. It is a good idea to bring freezer bags or freezer containers and freeze sweet and hot peppers, blanched carrots, etc., for use during the winter months. Dried fruits can usually be found during the winter in local bazaars. Greenhouse grown tomatoes are available during the winter. Winter staples include root vegetables, tomatoes, dried fruits and nuts, and sometimes apples, pears, citrus fruits (mostly mandarins), and bananas may be found.

Fresh lamb, beef, and chicken are in the markets, but local meats are tougher than American meats and require lengthy braising to , and turkeys.

The most common local bread, "nan" is a round, flat wheat bread similar to pita. "Nan" can be bought freshly baked in any neighborhood. Regular white and whole-grain loaves are available at some shops, as are light, crusty baguettes from the Turkish cafe.

There are several small grocery stores in town that carry a small selection of imported products, including frozen chicken breasts, frozen broccoli, peas, and corn; as well as dried pasta, cereals, and various condiments. Selection is somewhat hit or miss at times. Local stores carry soft drinks, alcoholic drinks (vodkas of all kinds, and semi-sweet champagnes and cognacs are most popular), and a number of stores carry imported delicacies, such as chocolate, cheese, butter, and sausage. Some French, Moldovan, and Georgian wines are available, but they tend to be relatively expensive for the quality. Tajikistan makes sweet wines that generally do not appeal to the American palate, so wine lovers should plan to ship or order table wines with their consumables. Employees should bring staples, spices, condiments, snackfoods and personal favorites in their consumables allowance.

Consumable shipments are now available through an agreement with ELSO (our European logistics team) and the military commissary at Ramstein Air Base in Germany. Prices are highly competitive, and shipping times much quicker than from the US. Shipments can also be ordered through Giant, HoHo, NetGrocer etc. Wine and spirits can also be purchased through European vendors at excellent prices, and sent to ELSO to be included in the consumable shipment.

Clothing Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:15 PM

Although most people in Tajikistan are Muslim, Dushanbe has always had a mix of ethnic and cultural backgrounds, so people are generally tolerant of Western dress. Shorts — on either men or women — are only appropriate for hiking. Form-fitting clothes are taken in stride, but bare skin at the midriff or revealed by short skirts is not. Sleeveless or short-sleeved blouses are fine for women.

The climate can go from one extreme to the other in the course of a day, so it is sometimes useful to dress in layers, particularly since few local buildings are climate-controlled in the summer or winter.

Tailoring is available, but high-quality fabric is not. Drycleaning service is available, but shoe repair is of poor quality. Be sure to bring materials and equipment to care for everything you wear.

Men Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:15 PM

Tajik men wear Western-style clothing for work and leisure. Clothing available in shops here are of poor quality and run to the small side, so bring everything you need from home.

Shorts are not worn except by very young boys. Outside of your home, you may wear shorts if you are going hiking.

Women Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:16 PM

Women in Dushanbe usually wear their native dress — a long, loose dress with pants underneath. Women who can afford it, including FSN employees, wear Western-style clothing when they go out. Short skirts are not worn, and women are advised to bring skirts of modest length.

Tajik women will occasionally wear see-through blouses so that their bras are seen, but bare skin is never seen. See-through blouses, even with a decent bra underneath, are not appropriate office attire. It is best to dress conservatively. A little skin showing at the midriff when dressed casually at leisure may be okay, a lot of skin is not. Shorts when hiking are appropriate, but otherwise women do not wear shorts in public.

Children Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:17 PM

Boys dress in Western-style clothing.

Girls usually wear their native dress — a long dress with pants underneath — but also wear Western clothing. Tajik girls do not wear shorts, but it would be okay for our younger girls to wear shorts outside of the home. Older girls may wear them if they are not too brief. The Tajiks are conservative in their clothing, so bared midriffs may be looked on askanse. It is best to err on the side of being more conservative — a little skin at the waist is okay, a lot of skin is not.

Office Attire Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:18 PM

Men. Dress slacks, shirt, and tie are normally worn in the office, unless a meeting is scheduled with a high-level official, when a business suit is appropriate.

Women. Skirts or slacks with a blouse or sweater are worn in the office. Business suits are appropriate for high-level meetings. Short skirts are not worn in Dushanbe. Skirts should reach the knee at least — mid-calf or long skirts are more appropriate.

Supplies and Services Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:18 PM

Only limited supplies and services are available at present. International-quality 220v appliances are available, as are, increasingly, audio and video electronics. Local hair salons are fine for cuts. Generally speaking, it is best to bring along your favorite hair care products, cosmetics, and other personal care supplies and equipment. Specialized personal services, including massage (in your home), acupuncture treatments, pedicures, and manicures are also available. Drycleaning service is available.

Supplies Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:21 PM

Improvements in the availability of supplies are slowly being made. International-quality 220v appliances are available, as are, increasingly, audio and video electronics.

It is best to bring along your favorite hair care products, cosmetics, and other personal care supplies and equipment.

American quality paper products such as toilet paper, paper towels, and napkins are not available. The only American laundry soap that is usually available is Tide in powder form, and only in small boxes. Unless you are comfortable with hit and miss on laundry soap and other laundry-related supplies, you should order all of your favorite laundering products for your consummables shipment.

Some Russian and Turkish crackers and cookies can be found, but you take the risk of them being stale. If you do not want to bake your own, we advise that you include these in your consummables. A variety of jams can be found. There is no peanut butter. Canned goods such as tuna fish are sometimes available and sometimes not. Bring your own favorite condiments (ketchup, mustard, mayonnaise, etc.) and pickles, baked beans, and other canned goods as well as marinades, barbecue and spaghetti sauces and so on, and your favorite salad dressing, in your household shipment or order them as a consummables shipment. Some of these items can be found on a hit-and-miss basis, and you can try the Russian versions of salad dressings and sauces, if you like, but these are sometimes expensive and whether you like the flavor is a personal choice. Frozen vegetables sometimes disappear from the store freezers for several months in the winter.

Freezer bags and freezer containers as well as regular storage containers and bags (sandwich, trash, etc) should be brought with you. Foil, parchment paper, and plastic wrap should be brought also. You can bring along a supply of cards for birthdays, sympathy, and holidays, or order them online (remember that our mail is quite slow).

In general, you can get along without bringing the above named items with you, but your quality of life will probably suffer and you will spend a lot of time going from store to store to try and find which one has the items you need in stock. There is nothing you can do about the quality and selection of meat, cheeses and fresh produce you can find here, but if you send yourself the usual spices and other products that you like to use, you will probably save yourself some frustration at the least.

Basic Services Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:21 PM

Specialized personal services including hair cutting, massage (in your home), acupuncture treatments, pedicures, and manicures are available. Dry cleaning service is available.

Domestic Help Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:22 PM

Domestic help is available at very reasonable cost. Many people employ housekeepers who do shopping, cooking, and laundry, in addition to general cleaning. Gardeners are also available at low cost.

Religious Activities Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:22 PM

Tajiks are mostly Muslim or nominally Muslim but there are Baptist, Adventist, Korean Pentecostal, Catholic, German-speaking Catholic, and Russian Orthodox churches in Dushanbe. There are also weekly Catholic, Protestant, and non-denominational Protestant services in English in Dushanbe.

Education Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:23 PM

A school accredited by the Middle States Association of Colleges and Schools has been established in Dushanbe, and either an At Post or an Away From Post Education Allowance is paid for dependent education.

Quality Schools International, Dushanbe, offers a curriculum for preschool and kindergarden through middle school.

Currently, it offers a high school curriculum as a supervised correspondence course through the University of Nebraska, supplemented with arts (music, drama, fine art) and physical education taught by the school faculty.

An away from post education allowance will be paid for those who wish to send their children to boarding school in the U.S. or to an accredited school overseas.

Dependent Education Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:24 PM

Quality Schools International (QSI), Dushanbe is fully accredited in the U.S. by the Middle States Association of Colleges and Schools, and receives support from the Office of Overseas Schools. It was established in 2004, and had four students its inaugural year, 2004-05. As of this update, the school has 11 students for the 2005-06 year, and expects to add more during the course of the year.

QSI Dushanbe offers a full preschool and Kindergarden through middle school curriculum. Its high school curriculum is a correspondence program through the University of Nebraska, supervised by QSI teachers, supplemented with physical education, music, fine arts, and drama.

QSI Dushanbe recently moved into a new school building, large enough to accommodate its growing student population. It features a computer room as well as a library, gymnasium/drama room, music room and lunch room. The experienced professional faculty includes teachers certified in elementary and secondary education, early childhood certification, library science, and dramtic art.

At Post Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:25 PM Quality Schools International (QSI), Dushanbe is fully accredited in the U.S. by the Middle States Association of Colleges and Schools, and receives support from the Office of Overseas Schools. It was established in 2004, and had four students its inaugural year, 2004-05. As of this update, the school has 11 students for the 2005–06 year, and expects to add more during the course of the year.

QSI Dushanbe offers a full preschool and Kindergarden through middle school curriculum. Its high school curriculum is a correspondence program through the University of Nebraska, supervised by QSI teachers, and supplemented with physical education, music, art, and drama at the school.

QSI Dushanbe recently moved into a new school building, large enough to accommodate its growing student population. It features a computer room as well as a library, gymnasium/drama room, music room, and lunch room. The experienced professional faculty includes teachers certified in elementary and secondary education, early childhood certification, library science, and dramtic art.

Away From Post Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:26 PM The State Department pays an away from post education allowance for students who wish to study in the U.S. or at accredited boarding schools outside the U.S.

Special Needs Education Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:26 PM

Special needs education is not available at this time.

Higher Education Opportunities Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:26 PM

Higher education opportunities in English are not available.

Recreation and Social Life Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:27 PM

As the security requirements have eased somewhat, American staff in Dushanbe have been able to go exploring, running, biking, and visiting areas outside the capital to watch local activities such as buzkashi (a traditional horseback game that was probably the precursor of polo), picnic, or hunt for wild boar. Tennis is available at an indoor hall in Dushanbe, and there are badminton and volleyball leagues. Tajiks welcome the involvement of foreigners in everything they do and are justifiably proud of their extraordinary hospitality.

Sports Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:27 PM

Tennis is available at an indoor hall in Dushanbe. There are badminton and volleyball leagues in the city also. The Embassy currently has a mini-weight room of sorts in the basement of the house next door to the current Chancery.

The ICASS Council has purchased sports equipment for a recreation center to be built at the new Embassy Compound after the completion of the Chancery and Marine House. The sports we have prepared for are: tennis, basketball, softball, volleyball and badminton (in sandpits), soccer, a running track, and a gymnasium with workout equipment. Please bring your own playing equipment such as tennis rackets and balls, and softball mitts, bats, and balls, etc.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:28 PM

Daytrips are sponsored by a local tour guide that frequently includes hikes into the nearby mountains in the warm months, and sledding in the winter. The CLO Coordinator arranges an occasional outing to nearby historical sites such at Fort Hissar, or picnics in the Varzob area.

There are several tour outfits that feature hiking and trekking in the Fann Mountains north of Dushanbe and mountaineering and hunting trips in the Pamirs. They also arrange jeep and helicopter tours, cycling and riding trips, and rafting adventures. Any of the tour companies will be happy to arrange something tailor-made to suit your needs.

Entertainment Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:29 PM

There are concerts, operas, and plays in Russian in Dushanbe. Since theaters are not always heated, it is advisable to dress warmly in the winter. In the summer the most pleasant activities are garden performances of music, poetry and dance that are organized by some of the small museums around town. Poetry readings are common and enjoyable even without the high level of Tajik needed to fully appreciate them.

The Bactria Center, a facility that sponsors a wide variety of cultural activities, frequently hosts art and handicraft exhibitions, musical concerts, and poetry readings. It is also a gathering place for the international community, since there are weekly foreign film evenings (projected onto a white wall), language classes, and other social events.

Social Activities Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:29 PM

Dushanbe has a small but growing international community, so games, picnics and other organized social events invariably include the expat community. There is outstanding hiking, bouldering and mountain climbing in the Switzerland-like countryside within easy reach of Dushanbe. There is a creaky ski lift. Musical instruments can be rented and good, inexpensive teachers can be found for those wishing to play the piano, woodwinds, or a stringed instrument. Chess is very popular, and quality teachers are also readily available.

Among Americans Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:30 PM Currently, our social activities are limited to having friends over to our homes. When the new Embassy compound is completed, and the recreation area is built, we will have a place to hold parties, TGIF nights, barbecues, and sports acitivities.

International Contacts Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:30 PM It is easy to meet Tajiks, who are extremely hospitable. Americans can be a little overwhelmed by Tajik hospitality, which often includes seemingly endless amounts of food and vodka toasts.

There is a nice mix of nationalities, including Tajik citizens (usually NGO staff) at their parties. Tajiks love to dance, and there is dancing at many events. Customarily long, quite elaborate meals are offered, and guests are expected to toast and be toasted until the "plov" (rice with meat and vegetables) is served, after which they may depart without offense.

Family occasions such as weddings, circumcisions, and funerals are social occasions as well. Anyone posted in Tajikistan can expect to make Tajik friends, and will be invited to these celebrations frequently. Again, a speech is expected, and a gift of some sort is appreciated for weddings and birthdays.

Practical gifts for the household may be given, but objects from the U.S. are also appreciated. Urban Tajiks prize intellectual achievement, so books are a good gift. As in most of the former Soviet Union, flowers are generally brought to dinners at a Tajik house. Alternatively, a good box of chocolates, vodka or (for some) wine is appreciated.

Official Functions Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:31 PM

The standard government reception is usually a large, sit-down affair with toasts and speeches, and entertainment in the form of national dance troupes or singers. The Ambassador and, occasionally, the DCM and Senior Military Representative are invited. Official functions are "set pieces" from which deviation is very rare. Other Embassies and international organizations tend to have less formal stand-up receptions, often with live music from one of Dushanbe's many fine bands. No one can remember a function in which anything more formal than a dark suit was required.

Business cards of good quality can be printed in Dushanbe in English, Russian, and Tajik.

Nature of Functions Last Updated: 10/3/2005 1:14 AM

Notes For Travelers

Getting to the Post Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:31 PM

Air Tajikistan offers flights in and out of Dushanbe several days a week with their fleet of old Soviet-made aircraft.

Air Tajikistan is not on any computer, so it is not possible for travel agents outside of the country to access their schedules or purchase tickets. Tickets can only be bought by paying cash in person at the airport. Travelers to post must arrange in advance with Embassy Dushanbe for their tickets to be purchased by the expeditor in whatever city they are traveling to Dushanbe from, or bought in Dushanbe and sent to them by courier service. For travelers to post, it is very important to contact us in advance, since the Air Tajik schedule changes often, which can cause problems with connecting flights.

Since July 2005, Air Tajikistan offers a flight to and from Munich each Saturday, which is the most popular option for Embassy personnel because of the time savings over other flights.

The second most popular option is the Wednesday flight to and from Istanbul.

Other options are to fly through Bishkek (two flights a week) or Almaty (three flights a week). Each of these options usually requires an overnight, or two-night, stay in Bishkek or Almaty. The dates and times of these flights change often, so please contact post for the current schedule if you plan to travel through these cities.

It's extremely important to contact post well in advance if you are traveling with pets or have any special needs.

Customs, Duties, and Passage Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:32 PM

Travel and shipping arrangements are constantly changing. It is best to check with post immediately before your shipment is made. There should be no duties for official travelers; currently, all accredited staff receive the same customs and duty privileges.

Customs and Duties Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:32 PM

Travel and shipping arrangements are constantly changing. It is best to check with post immediately before your shipment is made. There should be no duties for official travelers; currently, all accredited staff receive the same customs and duty privileges.

Pets Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:33 PM

Pets may be brought into the country with the standard international immunization records. Prior coordination, however, is crucial to coordinate their travel as it is a very difficult process. Only Air Tajikistan serves Dushanbe, and many of their planes do not have pressurized cargo holds. There is a limit on which flights may allow a pet in the passenger hold, and how many they can accommodate. Please contact post as early as possible to begin the process of figuring out which route you will need to take with a pet and getting the relevant permissions.

Some people at post have adopted pets locally.

Very limited veterinarian care is available. The usual process is for surgeries etc to be carried out on your kitchen table with rudimentary equipment. Embassy Dushanbe's policy is to refer any questions a pet owner may have about pet care to other officers who have pets in country.

Firearms and Ammunition Last Updated: 1/3/2005 11:40 PM

Private possession of firearms is strictly controlled under Tajik law. For this reason, post has adopted a no personal weapons policy.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:33 PM

Tajik currency is the Tajik Somoni. Currency can be changed at authorized exchange houses or at the Embassy cashier. Tajikistan is a cash-only economy; neither traveler's checks nor credit cards are accepted. Although there are now several ATMs in Dushanbe, electronic banking is in its infancy in Tajikistan. All Americans are advised to set up accounts in the U.S. with on-line banking services.

Tajikistan uses the metric system for weights and measures.

Taxes, Exchange, and Sale of Property Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:33 PM

Tajikistan does not attempt to levy income taxes on Embassy personnel. There is value-added tax (VAT), but it is generally incorporated into the price of goods and services. Foreigners are not permitted to own real estate in Tajikistan under most circumstances. Sale of personal property is controlled by Embassy policy and the customary foreign affairs agency regulations.

Recommended Reading Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:37 PM

These titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country. The Department of State does not endorse unofficial publications.

Local Web Site: http://www.tajik-gateway.org

Allworth, Edward. Central Asia:130 Years of Russian Dominance, A Historical Overview. Duke University Press: 1994. ISBN 0822315548 and ISBN 0822315211 (paper).

Atkin, Muriel. Tajikistan's Relations With Iran and Afghanistan. National Council for Soviet and East European Research: (Washington, D.C.), 1992.

Banuazizi, Ali and Weiner, Myron. The New Geopolitics of Central Asia and its Borderlands. Indiana University Press: 1994. ISBN 0253209188.

Hopkirk, Peter. The Great Game: The Struggle for Empire in Central Asia. Kodansha International: 1992. ISBN 4770017030 and ISBN 1568360223 (per).

Hopkirk, Peter. Setting the East Ablaze: On Secret Service in Bolshevik Asia. Oxford University Press: 1984. ISBN 0192851667.

Lubin, Nancy. Islam and Ethnic Identity in Central Asia: A View From Below. National Council for Soviet and East European Research: (Washington, D.C.), 1994.

Mandelbaum, Michael. Central Asia and the World. Council on Foreign Relations, 1994. ISBN 0876091672.

Menon, Rajan. Understanding Security in Post-Soviet Central Asia. National Council for Soviet and East European Research (Washington, D.C.), 1994.

Mesbahi, Mohiaddin. Central Asia and the Caucasus After the Soviet Union: Domestic and International Dynamics. University of Florida: 1994. ISBN 0813013089.

Minomov, G. Khaiclarov. Tajikistan: Tragedy and Anguish of the Nation. Linko: 1993.

Olcott, Martha Brill. Asia's New States: Independence, Foreign Policy, and Regional Security. U.S. Inst. of Peace Press: 1996. ISBN 1878379518.

Olcott, Martha Brill. The Future of Fundamentalism in Central Asia. National Council for Soviet and East European Research: Washington, D.C., 1994.

Rashid, Ahmed. The Resurgence of Central Asia: Islam of Nationalism. Zed Books: 1994. ISBN 1856491315.

Roy, Olivier. The New Central Asia: The Creation of Nations. New York University Press: 2000. ISBN 0814775551.

Thubron, Colin. The Lost Heart of Asia. Harper Collins: 1994. ISBN 0060182261.

Whitlock, Monica. Land Beyond the River: The Untold Story of Central Asia. Thomas Dunne Books: St. Martin's Press: 2002. ISBN 031227727X.

Local Holidays Last Updated: 11/15/2005 3:40 PM

New Year's Day January 1 International Women's Day March 10 Navruz (Tajik New Year) March 21-22 Solidarity of Working People Day May 1 Victory Day May 9 Day of National Unity June 27 Independence Day September 9 Constitution Day November 6

The dates of Idi Kurbon-Bairam and Idi Ramadan are based on the lunar calendar, and vary from year to year.